Friday, November 13, 2009


Getting Started - Snowshoeing
Once the snow starts to fly, many turn their attention to skiing or snowboarding. I turn mine to snowshoeing. Not only is snowshoeing a tremendous winter workout (you can burn upwards of 500 calories per hour!), it is also one of the best ways to truly enjoy the quiet and serenity of a snowy landscape…and it all comes without crowds, lift lines, pricey lift tickets, a 4-hour traffic jam on I-70 or a before-dawn wake-up call. Whoo-hoo!

What do you need to know before going? Not much. Can you walk? Have you put one foot in front of the other in an extended series? If you answered “yes” to these questions, you can definitely snowshoe. And, other than snowshoes and poles, you probably already have everything else you need to get started in your winter wardrobe…I cannot stress enough how important it is to dress appropriately when snowshoeing. DRESS IN LAYERS! You will heat up significantly during your hike, and you will want the option to shed some layers as you work up a sweat, and you will want the option to throw some layers back on if the wind picks up or you are in the shade for an extended period of time. A good rule of thumb is that if you feel about 10 degrees too cold when you get out of the car, you will be perfect once you start moving. It bears repeating: DRESS IN LAYERS!

You will need to protect your feet, hands, face, neck and head. Almost 50 percent of your heat loss will be through your head. I typically bring ski cap and a ball cap so I can switch depending on conditions. I also bring two different kinds of gloves – my snowboarding mittens for when it’s really cold or I’m just starting out, and a thin wicking pair for once I get started and the mittens become too hot. A neck gaiter or scarf is helpful for when it’s super cold out and you’ve got snot-scicles forming.

It is important to pay close attention to the layers next to your skin. Your first layer should be silk, Capilene, DryClime or wool/wool blend. You do not want wet cotton against your skin once you start sweating. Brrrrrrr!

Also vital is the outerlayer…Gore-Tex is best because it breathes, and is also wind-proof and water-proof. But, it’s expensive. Nylon that has been treated will also work. You want to be sure it’s fairly water-proof, so re-treat every couple of washings. For your bottom half, breathable rain pants would work, as would ski pants. Because I tend to get hot pretty quickly, I layer running tights with rain pants, and stay comfortable and dry. On really cold days, I will wear long underwear and ski pants. Try a few different options to determine which is best for you. But, remember, layers, layers, layers!

The next thing you need are some snowshoes and poles. Unless you are absolutely certain snowshoeing is something you want to do a lot of and you know what kind of snowshoes you need, it makes sense to rent snowshoes to start. Many outdoor shops will rent snowshoes for a weekend for around $15 - $20. And, keep your eyes peeled for Snowshoe Expos…at an expo event, you can try a variety of snowshoes for free and see which ones you like before investing. I first tested my current snowshoes at an expo. You can plan on spending $150 and up to purchase a new pair of snowshoes and poles. Here’s some advice from Outside magazine about selecting snowshoes.

And from Cabelas.

So, now you’ve got your shoes and poles, you’ve packed plenty of water and snacks, and you’re layered up and ready to go. To get the most of your experience, you should probably wait until there’s at least 6 to 8 inches on the ground. You can snowshoe in less (provided you’re ready to take your snowshoes off several times when you hit bare ground or exposed rocks), but it’s way more fun to have a little snow to work with. You can pick a hiking trail, tromp through a local park, or just go exploring. Many of the popular hiking trails also make good snowshoeing trails. I would encourage you to walk on the packed-down trail while you’re getting the hang of it, but you really should break trail and head through the trees and up and down steep hills (provided you are not walking up an avalanche chute)…that’s where the real fun begins! There is nothing quite like trying to run downhill in snowshoes and floating through the powder! So fun! Because there is a nice layer of snow between you and the ground, you do not need to stick to the trail. You won’t cause any erosion or damage to the tender plants underneath by going off-trail, provided there is enough snow. I like a mix of going off trail and the relative ease of packed-down trail. Breaking trail is a blast, but it is hard work!

As always, the most important thing is to just get out and try it!

GG


All the Grubby Details:
How Far - Depends on how far you'd like to go and how many other people you’d like on the trail with you...there a TONS of options within a one- to two-hour drive of Denver.
Time Commitment – Depends on how far you want to go and what the snow is like…But, definitely plan on being gone for at least 3-5 hours, including the drive.
Misery Index – Low to Moderate – Snowshoeing is super fun, but it is also an intense aerobic workout. You can get pretty tired. And, then there’s the cold. If you get moving, the cold shouldn’t bother you (I’ve snowshoed in temperatures well below zero with no problem), but it’s tough getting started when it’s that cold.
Intimidation Index – Moderate – fears include equipment overload, avalanches and thinking it’s a lot more technical than it is. Don’t let any of that stop you. It really is as easy as walking. As far as avalanches go, as long as you stay in places where there are a lot of trees and don’t hike up or down super steep slopes (think 30 – 40 degree slope), you should be fine. But, let your intuition be your guide…if it feels sketchy, turn around. There are plenty of non-avalanche prone areas to explore.
Dog Friendliness - High - but, make sure your dog has plenty of water and can handle a hike in the snow and cold.
Important Notes – If you are snowshoeing on a mixed-use trail, stay out of the tracks left by cross-country skiers. It messes up their lines and makes them VERY grumpy! And, try to stay away from areas that are popular with snowmobilers…not only are the machines loud and stinky, they can also be dangerous to snowshoers and dogs.
Equipment needed to start – Snowshoes, poles, clothing to layer…and you’re good!
Equipment to upgrade if you find you like it – Snowshoeing is one of those rare sports where, once you have your equipment, there really isn’t much to upgrade. You can buy fancier poles or more intense snowshoes, but your standard-issue snowshoes and poles should do you good for years and years and years and many different types of terrain.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Your First Turkey Trot - A Challenge

Getting Started: Your First 5K

The Turkey Trot Challenge


This past spring, I ran my second half marathon. This fall, I signed up to run a full marathon next spring. But, long, long before any of these feats was even a twinkle in my eye, I had to start running. I’d always enjoyed long walks, but once, in the middle of a walk, I decided to see how far I could run. I couldn’t even run a half mile. That day, I finished my walk and decided I would try to run again the next time I walked. And, I did. I would walk for a few minutes, then run for as long as I could, until I was running a half mile, then a mile at a time, then two miles, then two and a half miles, then three miles…It was all very gradual over one summer. That, my friends, was the start of a beautiful love affair with running.

My friend and neighbor in Albuquerque heard I’d started running and challenged me to run the Turkey Trot with him. I took Darrell up on the challenge, and having a goal that I was working towards was a huge motivator to be consistent with my runs. That first race, I didn’t even know there were training programs. I just set out to run, and run a little further each time I ran until I knew I would be able to run a whole 5K – 3.1 miles. I ran that first Turkey Trot pretty slowly, but I was proud of myself for having finished it, and started to look for other races so that I would always have a goal to keep running.

In the 11 years since my first Turkey Trot in Albuquerque, I have only missed one, and that was because I was in Aruba. I’m running the Mile High Turkey Trot this Thanksgiving, in fact. It is my very favorite Thanksgiving tradition. The atmosphere is fun and familial, and it allows me to feel less guilty about the feast later in the day.

Since we have about 6 weeks until Thanksgiving, I thought I’d issue a challenge, just like the one Darrell gave me. If you’ve ever thought about running, or wondered what it’s like to participate in a race, now’s your time! Sign up for the Turkey Trot in your area, and start training!


Here’s a list of Turkey Trots…there’s definitely one near you!

http://www.active.com/running/turkeytrot/


Here’s a plan to get you started:

http://www.runnersworld.com/images/cma/beginner5k_table.jpg


And, here’s one of my very favorite training companions:

http://www.djsteveboy.com/podrunner.html

DJ Steve Boyette even has a series called “First Day to 5K” – Perfect! http://dailyburn.com/workout_programs/90756-Podrunner-Interval-Workout-First-Day-to-5K


All the Grubby Details:
How Far – 5K, 3.1 miles, about 35 minutes.
Time Commitment – For the next five weeks, plan on walking/running for at least 10 minutes a day, three or four days a week. Build slowly. Add a few minutes to your time each time you go out.

Misery Index – Low to Moderate – There’s a phrase for the euphoria runners feel when the endorphins kick in – “Runner’s High.” It’s amazing. But, there will be days when every step is a struggle. The important thing is to move past the hard days and be consistent with your running. Don’t give up! Everyone has a rough day.
Intimidation Index – Moderate to High – 3.1 miles seems like a long, long way from the comfort of your couch. But, especially for your first 5K, your goal could be simply to finish it. If you give yourself permission to finish the race with your best effort, you will be less intimidated because you gave it all you had. Remember, you have to start from where you are. Honor where you are and begin. You will be in a completely different place once you finish the race. Who knows, you could end up deciding you love running and want to run another 5K.

Dog Friendliness - Depends on how fit your dog is. I see people running with their dogs all the time. I also see poor dogs lumbering behind their owners, struggling to keep up. See how your dog does, and don’t take them if you just need a companion.
Equipment needed to start – A pair of shoes and a good pair of socks. Socks can make a HUGE difference in the comfort of your run, so be sure you don’t wear cotton socks! Many high quality running stores can help you pick out a shoe that fits your gait and fitness level, as well as your budget. In the Denver area, Road Runner Sports has a seven-step process that will put you in the perfect shoe – and you can return it if you take it out for a run and decide you don’t like it.

I would also recommend a shirt that wicks. You will probably sweat some during your run, and with the crisp fall air, you want to keep that moisture away from your skin.
Equipment to upgrade if you find you like it – Oh, the options are endless. Running tights, head lamps, fancy sunglasses, heart rate monitor, water bottle holders, visors…

Now, get out there and do it! I know you can!

GG

Gabby, Dan, Nicole and Grubby Girl after our first half marathon.


Tuesday, September 29, 2009

The 10-Minute Rule

Sometimes, the hardest part of getting outside and getting exercise is getting off the couch and out the door.

“I’m soooo tired!”

“I’m coming down with something.”

“I don’t feel like it!”

“Ugh! I’ll do it tomorrow.”

Sound familiar? I know I’ve said all of these things more than once. It’s hard to find time to exercise, especially when you’ve fallen out of the habit, or have never been in the habit. It’s hard to think about the whole workout in front of you. It can feel overwhelming and intimidating.

It doesn’t have to be. One of my favorite keys to success for maintaining a regular workout schedule is what I call my 10-Minute Rule. I force myself out the door and promise myself just 10 minutes. I know I can do anything for 10 minutes. I give whatever I am doing – walking, running, riding my bike - my full effort, whatever I can do that day, the full 10 minutes. After that, I check in. How do I feel? How does my body feel? Can I go on? Do I want to give up? If I don’t feel like I can do more, I call it a day and go home. I don't feel guilty because I gave it my best for 10 minutes. But, usually after 10 minutes, the endorphins start kicking in and I feel awake & alive, my body feels less sore, and whatever brain fog was trying to keep my on the couch has lifted. Most days, if I promise myself 10 minutes, I can go on and finish my workout.

Focusing on completing one small goal – just 10 minutes – will ultimately help you accomplish a much larger goal, whether it’s running a 5k or a marathon; riding your bike to work each day or finishing a century; or hiking for 2 miles or to the top of a 14er. Break it down and promise yourself 10.

What are your secrets to success?

It's all in you,
GG

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Tech Tip: How to Avoid a Bear Attack

Grubby Guy sent this video to me. While it's funny, the subject matter is serious. If you are concerned about bear attacks, or spend any time in places where bears live, I would recommend you watch it and learn what to do when you see a bear.

Click here to see the video. Enjoy! Oh, and don't get your head ripped off!

XO,
GG

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Tech Tip: Herbal First Aid

A comprehensive first aid kit is essential for any outdoor adventure. You never know what you'll need or when. It could be as simple as a piece of moleskin for a blister, and it could be as complex as a broken bone or shock. You can buy a good, light first aid kit at any outdoors shop, but you can add some herbal elements to help support you in acute situations. One of the best herbal ingredients you can include in your first aid kit is Lavender Essential Oil. Among other uses, Lavender Essential Oil helps with:

  • Anxiety - apply directly to pulse points and breathe deeply
  • Bites - apply directly to the bite
  • Bruises - apply directly to the bruise or make into a compress with bandages
  • Burns - apply immediately to burn; add 10 drops to 1/2 cup water and apply to sunburn
  • Headache - apply to temples, back of neck, or bottom of feet
  • Infections - apply directly to infected area
  • Insect Repellent - add to water and spritz
  • Shock - along with other first aid measures, lavender to pulse points
  • Wounds - apply to area

Here's more information about amazing Lavender.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Tips & Hints - After Work Hikes

One of the great joys of the summer is that it stays light out long enough to get in an after-work hike. Thanks to the excellent work of Jefferson County Open Space and Denver Mountain Parks, those of us on the Front Range have a plethora of options to choose from. Here are a few of my very favorite after-work hikes:

Mt. Falcon – This is a great leg burner. You climb about 1,000 feet in 1.7 miles, and can climb an additional 1,000 feet to a picnic shelter, if you are so inclined. The nice thing about Mt. Falcon is that it offers a hiker-only trail in the Turkey Trot trail. Since this area is extremely popular with mountain bikers, I highly recommend that option!
Mt. Galbraith – A great hiker-only park. Good climb through some interesting terrain, and a very doable 4.4 miles round trip, if you add in the loop at the top, which you should.
Green Mountain – Another popular trail with both mountain bikers and hikers, with a lot of different options for adding or subtracting length to your hike (take a map!). I would recommend doing this one in early summer or late summer/early fall. There is very little shade, and it can get scorching!
Apex – This trail leaves from the parking lot of Heritage Square and is also very popular with mountain bikers. But, it meanders near a creek and you can often catch deer or elk at the top, so it makes it worthwhile. And, it’s a great climb.
Deer Creek – A little south of the metro area, this is a great area that offers mixed use trails as well as a hiker-only option. There are some interesting red rock formations to check out, and usually some deer near the trailhead.
Elk Meadow – I like to save my Evergreen hikes for when it’s super hot in Denver. This one is a pleasant walk in the trees and meadows near Evergreen, and also serves as the base of the climb to Bergen Peak.
Bergen Peak – It a while to get to the top of this 9,700 peak, so I would not recommend it if you are short of time or can’t leave the trailhead by 5:30 or 6. It is 3.7 miles one-way to the top, and I have been caught hiking back down in the pitch black a few times, which can be a little dangerous.
Lair O’ the Bear – This is a great trail for kids because it follows Bear Creek and is relatively flat for about 1.5 miles before climbing more steeply. This JeffCo park connects with Little Park, a Denver Mountain Park, so be sure you have a map that covers both areas.
Red Rocks Trail – This trail offers great views of Denver and Red Rocks Amphitheater. It is not recommended for hot, hot, hot days as there is very little shade. Depending on how far you want to go, you can park at Red Rocks, or at the Matthew Winters Parking lot.
White Ranch – Great Foothills hike with a hiker-only option. Not a ton of shade until you reach the top, but really pretty views of Golden and Denver beyond.
Centennial Cone – This park alternates mountain biking days and hiking days on the weekends, but are multi-use during the week. The trail has several loops, so you can make it as long or as short as you’d like.

There are other options for your after-work enjoyment, but these are a few of my favorites. What are your favorite after work hikes?

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Trip Report - Flat Tops Wilderness Horse Packing

The best thing about backpacking with horses? They carry all the heavy stuff, so all you have to carry is a daypack with essentials. The worst thing about backpacking with horses? Horse farts. Specifically, being down wind of horse farts. Phew-eeee!

Grubby Guy and I went on a backcountry camping trip to the Flat Tops Wilderness with GGuy’s friend, Bart, and his girlfriend, Nicole. Bart brought his two horses, Twink and Rue to help us pack in, so we were a party of six.We decided to do a shuttle hike, starting at one point and ending at another, so we left GGuy’s truck at the Hill Creek trailhead, and hopped in with Bart and Nicole to drive up to Wall Lake trailhead near Trapper’s Lake.

Once there, we packed all of our stuff – tent, sleeping bags, clothes, food, camp stoves - into dry sacks and panniers to load up the horses. Twink and Rue were not at all sure they wanted to do the hike and tried to make a break for it several times during the loading process. Bart rounded them up, and we got them saddled and left the parking lot about 1:30 p.m.The Wall Lake trail gains 1,721 feet in just over 2 miles. It is considered one of the steepest but fastest ways to the top of the Flat Tops, and it mellows out considerably after that. Once on top of the plateau, we took the Oyster Lake Trail for another four or five miles to a little lake that was hidden on the top of another, smaller plateau, where we set up camp for the night about 5 p.m. We hung out at camp for the late afternoon/evening, Bart and Nicole went to a look-out point to glass the hillsides and GGuy took his fishing pole to the lake to catch a few. We met up back at camp around 7 p.m. and made some fresh salmon filets that GGuy brought with him from Alaska (gotta LOVE the horses!). We sat around long enough to see a few shooting stars and then crawled into bed to warm up.
GGuy, Bart and Nicole woke up before dawn to look for deer and elk and other critters while I stayed snug in my sleeping bag and slept in. (Heaven!) Once everyone was back in camp, we made breakfast and then packed up again to head toward Oyster Lake. We left camp about 10:30 a.m.
As we hiked, we stumbled upon a herd of sheep grazing on the short grass and their very protective dogs. And, walked past numerous lakes and streams and springs, through flat “parks” that were filled with short grasses and wildflowers, and through low-lying wetlands. We saw the Big Marvine and Little Marvine peaks (http://www.listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=1834) in the distance, and endless blue skies. It wasn’t a hard hike in terms of elevation gain, but it was a long, long day. I thought it was going to be 2 hours, so I only packed a granola bar and a few little snacky things. It ended up being much longer, and I was low on fuel. By the end, Grubby Guy and I were slap happy and not making any sense, singing nonsense songs to keep ourselves entertained. We sang “Hallelujah” when we finally came over a small hill and spotted Oyster Lake in the distance, about 5:30 p.m.

Bart picked out a camping spot and tied up the horses. Then we snacked, and set up the tents. Bart and Nicole napped while GGuy and I went to the lake to pump water. On our way to the lake, we spotted a herd of elk lazing in the sunshine by the lake. We stopped and watched an elk take a bath in the pond and the rest nap or munch on the short grass. After about half an hour, one of the elk finally spotted my red vest and the whole herd stood up and high tailed it out of there. We got our water and went back to camp to cook dinner. We built a small fire that night and stayed up late chatting and staring at the campfire.

We woke up early the next morning, and, knowing we had another long day ahead of us to get to the truck, we ate a good breakfast, packed sandwiches for lunch and set out for the Hill Creek intersection off of Oyster Lake Trail. Once we got to the edge of the plateau and headed back down, the trail got super steep and rocky. We had to gingerly pick our way down the trail, using our trekking poles for balance and to stop our downward momentum. Wildflowers grew shoulder-high along the trail, in just about every color of the rainbow. It was hard not to look at the wildflowers and the views, but the trail demanded we pay very close attention. We stopped for lunch on a small knoll and then set out for the last three miles. Everything was going along fine until we came upon a hillside that was criss-crossed by cow tracks. We went left when we should have gone right, and thus began a very difficult detour through ferns that grew well over my head and underbrush that was so thick it was difficult to pull your legs through without dragging a plant along with you. GGuy did his best to keep me calm and assure me that we weren’t “lost,” we just didn’t know EXACTLY where we were. After about an hour of bushwacking and trying to find the trail, GGuy finally spotted it down the hill from where we were. Once we found that, it was an easy two miles back to the truck across a beautiful stream and through a wildflower filled forest.
The Flat Tops are one of my very favorite places in Colorado, and this was a great trip overall. The hiking, while long, was definitely ‘do-able,’ and you just can’t beat the scenery. The Flat Tops are one of the first areas to be considered ‘wilderness,’ and it’s easy to see why it should be protected as a wild place. I would highly recommend the Flat Tops to anyone looking for a relatively easy backpacking trip. After the first pitch, you can cover a lot of ground and see some of the most amazing views in all of Colorado.

Lessons learned from this trip:
1) The Flat Tops make a perfect backpacking destination. Once you are on top, you can cover a lot of miles with relative ease.
2) Horses make backpacking much more pleasant, especially since you can fresh food instead of strictly dehydrated food. Not having 40 pounds of gear on your back is absolutely priceless.
3) Right when you think you are in the wrong spot, stop, check the map and backtrack to the point where you KNOW exactly where you are. Far better to retrace some steps than spend an hour hacking your way through dense vegetation that makes it difficult to distinguish land features and find your way back to the trail.
4) Take care of your blisters right away so you don't end up like me!

Trip Report - Chief Mountain Hike




In the summer, I like to get out for a few after-work hikes during the week. Not only are the trails less crowded, but seeing the mountains in the gloaming and watching the sky light up at sunset is a special treat.

On Wednesday, August 5th, I met Levi and Kris at Chief Mountain for an after-work hike. Kris wanted to try Chief Mountain, between Evergreen and Idaho Springs on Squaw Pass Road. It was a lot further than I usually travel for an after-work hike, but well worth it!

Chief Mountain is an 11,709 foot peak reached after a fairly short 1.5 mile hike. The trail gains about 1,100 feet over that distance. The elevation gain is steady, and not terribly hard – enough so you feel like you get a workout, but not enough that you have to stop every 10 steps for a breather. The trail is fairly rocky, so if you plan to go after work later in the summer, you might want to take a headlamp to make the descent a little easier. The trail passes through a dense pine forest at the bottom, and then into an alpine tundra once you pass treeline, about half a mile from the top. Once you pass treeline, you can look to the north and see Idaho Springs about 7 miles as the crow files below you, look west for Squaw Pass Road as it makes its way toward Mount Evans, east toward Evergreen, and south to see the rocky summit of Chief Mountain above you. The trail circles the bottom of the peak, eventually leading up to the base of the rocks that constitute the peak. Once you get to the top, the views are well worth pausing for to take it all in. Do a 360, and you can see Mount Evans, Greys and Torrey’s Peaks, Pikes Peak and Longs Peak. I reached the top when the sun was barely above the mountains to the West. The light on the rocks and stubby trees was amazing. It seemed like everything was letting its light shine from the inside. Just incredible!

All said, it took about 40 minutes to get to the top. I left the trailhead at 6:40 p.m., and was back at the car by 8 p.m., having stopped to take photos and breathe in the beauty.

(This would be a great place to bring a picnic lunch on a weekend. You can scramble on the rocks at the peak, and then rest in the relatively flat meadow at the top.)

http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/trails/ccrd/chiefmountain.shtml

The hardest part of the Chief Mountain trail is finding it. It is not well marked at all, and further than you think it could possibly be. Several times, I thought I MUST have passed it, but hadn’t.
To get there:From Denver, take I-70 West to Exit 252. Go south on Colorado 74 for 3.4 miles and turn on Colorado 103, Squaw Pass Road toward Echo Mountain Ski Area and Mount Evans. Follow the narrow, winding mountain road for about 12 miles (Just east of mile marker 18). Look for Echo Mountain Ski Area on the right. The parking area is around the bend from the entrance to Echo Mountain. There is a pull-out on the right. You will know you are in the right place when you see the ski lift for Echo Mountain just below you. The trail is across the road and slightly behind the pull-off.

Leaving Denver (Colorado Blvd. and Exposition) at 5:20 p.m., I got to the trailhead about 6:30 p.m.

After the hike, we checked out Trinity Irish Pub in El Rancho for a tasty treat and a cold beverage. http://www.thetrinitypub.com/location.html

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Girl Getting Grubby Goes to Alaska!

Sometimes, I think, when trying something new, it’s best to jump right in and not have any clue what you’re really in for! There is something to be said for not knowing what you don't know, for jumping in with both feet, for figuring things out as they come along. That way, everything is new and fresh and an adventure.

Such was my experience with backcountry sea kayaking in Glacier Bay National Park. I worked on a small cruise boat in GBNP in the summer of 2002. It was a magical, wonderful experience. At the time, I knew I wanted to go back someday and really experience all that GBNP has to offer. So, when Grubby Guy and I were kicking around summer vacation ideas, I threw a kayak adventure in Glacier Bay out there. Since GGuy had a friend in Sitka, we decided to split our time between visiting with friends and deep sea fishing in Sitka with a backcountry kayak adventure.

In sum, it was incredible and amazing, with some pretty hefty doses of misery thrown in.

Here’s how it all went down…After our flight from Sitka to Juneau was canceled, we had to make arrangements to make our way to Gustavus the next day. We had planned on camping at Bartlett Cove and getting an early start, but that wasn't going to happen. We spent the night in Juneau and then hopped on an early flight to Gustavus. Once we landed in Gustavus, after a quick 30 minute flight in a small Cessna from Juneau, we picked up another couple at a guesthouse in Gustavus and went to Bartlett Cove for our orientation. A guide from Glacier Bay Sea Kayaks went over tides and timing and other necessities for the next few days on the water, and got us decked out in our borrowed gear – double 18-foot kayak, heavy-duty rain paints, thick rubber boots, life jacket, paddles and spray skirt. We packed everything we owned into dry bags – clothes, food, first aid kit, cameras, tent, sleeping bags – packed the dry bags into the kayak and then waited for the camper orientation from the National Park Service. The camper orientation talked about the “Leave No Trace” backcountry ethic, the “natural” toilet (aka: tide), and then focused a lot on bear awareness…Glacier Bay has a pretty heavy concentration of both brown (think big Grizzlies) and black bears. The Park Service emphasized what to do if you encounter a bear, when to fight back and when to play dead. They pointed to a few spots on the map where previous campers had encountered “menacing” bears, and a few spots that were closed to campers due to bear activity. Then, they mentioned that they would not come looking for you until one full day after you failed to report back. I sort of freaked out at this point! The bear info concerned me, but GGuy and the Park Service employee calmed me down, saying that we “looked like reasonable” people that we should be fine. I tried not to take note of the look of concern that crossed her face when we told her we would not be taking along any bear spray.

I did not have time to fret, we had about 2 hours to get through a narrow, shallow passage just north of Bartlett Cove with the high tide or we would have to go the long way around and face some strong rip currents. We headed north – it was super shallow, and the water was super clear. We could see the bottom as we cruised north – small rocks and sea shells and grass all glided by beneath our boat.

We paddled through the narrows and into the Beardslee Islands and to the Bartlett River. The tide was still high, so we paddled up the river about a mile. GGuy fished off the kayak, catching a few Dolly Vartan trout. We pulled over to the shore, ate a quick lunch of sausage, cheese and crackers, and GGuy fished a little more from the shore. We walked up the bank of the river, following an animal trail for a bit. We saw huge paw prints in the mud and found a huge mound of scat, which did nothing to assuage my bear fears. We got back into the kayak and floated down the river once the high tide began to wane. GGuy caught a pink salmon, and we tied it to the back of the boat for a little dinner treat!

We got back out into the Beardslee Islands and paddled north. It was so calm and clear, and we were the ONLY people around. It was a stillness I’ve very rarely experienced. We had several pairs of Harbor Porpoise diving for fish around us. They would announce their presence with a “Whoosh!” and then dive again for fish. It was so still and calm, that even this exhale was crystal clear, even from a distance. I was a little worried about the salmon hanging off the boat…I thought it easy pickins for the Porpoise or one of the seals whose heads kept popping up around us. Two seals followed us for quite a while. We named them “Fred” and “Lou.” We set up camp that night just northeast of the Kidney Islands, next to a small creek so we could gather fresh water with the filter that GGuy brought. There was some bear scat around, but nothing super fresh. We saw a couple of good tent spots, so we unloaded and set up camp. It started drizzling while we were still paddling, and it pretty much rained the entire rest of the night. We set up the tent in the rain, cooked our dinner in the rain, ate in the rain, brushed our teeth in the rain, then gave up and crawled into the tent to dry off and warm up. GGuy and I both fell asleep mid-sentence we were so beat from the day. We woke up several times during the night, and one would say to the other: “It’s STILL raining!” “Yep, STILL raining!” One other sound woke us in the night…the sound of wolves howling. Now, I’ve heard coyotes howling plenty of times during my camping excursions in Colorado, but I’ve never heard a sound quite like this. It was more guttural and lonesome. It was half bark/half howl, and truly a sound I will not soon forget…Wolves in Alaska!

Waking up stiff and sore and knowing I would have to leave the cozy tent and put on full rain gear just to go to the bathroom was not an inviting thought. But, I couldn’t stay where I was, so I put on the gear and got up. It was still drizzling, but was an incredible, peaceful morning. We set up the stove, made some coffee (So delicious! Just what I needed!) and oatmeal. We pumped up a little water from the creek and packed up the boat again. We had to drag the boat through a lot of mud and crustacean-crusted rocks to the sea. The tide was incredibly low – it can very by up to 20 feet! We had a hard time navigating our way out of the Bearselees – we made a few wrong turns and had to backtrack to find a way out that had enough water.

We saw a few bears walking the shores of some of the islands (well, I had the "bear eye" as GGuy called it - I would spot them and point them out to him so he could look at them through the binoculars), and a ton otters floating in the water around the Bearslees. There were easily 100 or more otters, all floating on their backs in ones and twos and in larger “rafts.” They would pop up their little heads, holding their little hands and look at us and then dive back under the water. It was so adorable. One came up about 10 yards from the right side of the boat – looked at me with total surprise and dove back under! It was one of those moments where I felt completely connected to the Universe and all of the creatures in it. We were completely alone with the creatures and wilderness fairies. We could not see or hear another boat. It was just us, the otters, the bears, the seals, the ducks and the wild birds.

We stopped for a break once we got out of the Beardslees and into the larger bay. Even though it was getting to be high tide, and we should have had an easy time of it, it seemed like we were paddling against the tide. We would paddle and paddle and paddle and not get very far. It was hard work. We pulled over and tried to contemplate a jaunt over into Beartrack Cove. It would have been an additional 6 miles round trip, against the tide and into a headwind. Neither one of us had that kind of stamina in us. (Full confession: when we pulled over, I asked GGuy if we could just paddle back to the Lodge and get a room…I wanted a warm, comfortable bed, a hot shower…and no bears! Luckily he convinced me this was a bad idea and that I would regret it…)

We decided to cross the bay to York Creek, about 3 miles further and across an open span of the bay. Just outside of York Creek, we ran into a couple with inflatable rafts who had just come from York Creek and reported seeing a “fairly good-sized” Grizzly” by the mouth of the creek. They headed off to Beartrack Cove to hike up the stream to the Glacier! Their plan was to raft back down the creek! And, I thought I was nuts! I was super nervous about setting up camp at York Creek because of the bear sighting, but I was also super tired and damp and in need of a rest. We arrived about 3 p.m. and picked a spot, stamped down the brass and walked up and down the beach clapping, ringing our bear bell and yelling “Hey Bear!” It was all we could do – that, and be super aware of our surroundings. GGuy and I walked to York Creek and he fished for salmon off a point of rocks. I mostly stayed on the beach, clanging my little bell, scanning for bears, and picking out fossils in the rocks. GGuy fished until about 6:45 p.m., then we walked back to camp and cooked our dinner. It had stopped raining before we set up camp, so it was quite amazing to hang out on our little, private beach, eating our dinner, hanging out and absorbing the serenity all around. We watched as the little island in front of our camp first appeared and then became a bigger island as the tide rolled out. We crawled into the tent pretty early and literally passed out mid-sentence again. I remember laughing at GGuy because his eyes were half closed like a cat…then my own slammed shut and I was down for the count!

We woke up early again, ate a little breakfast and were contemplating the day ahead when I looked down the beach, and about 70 yards away, a mid-sized black bear was making his way down the beach. I stood up saying “Hey Bear!” to let him know we were there and then stood by GGuy so that we would appear larger. We rang the bell and kept talking to the bear. He was curious about us, but eventually lumbered into the trees…only to come back out to the beach about 70 yards on the other side of us. He was clearly on his way to the salmon creek, and we were merely a detour. We packed up pretty quickly after that and headed up bay with the tide.

We stopped just before Spokane Cove to rest and use the restroom, then pushed over to Lester Island, a distance of about 4.5 miles. We pulled over when we reached Lester Island for another rest. Cary laid down in the gravel for a nap, and I stretched my back and legs and arms and looked for interesting things in the small rocks. There were some great camping spots on Lester island, but we knew we had a big water crossing ahead, and rather than try to tackle it in the morning before getting picked up by the sighseeing boat, we decided to push all the way to Sebree Island, where we would be picked up in the morning.

We had a big, long open-water crossing from Lester to Sebree Island. It was approximately 4.5 miles across, without the relative safety of a shoreline to follow. The seas were pretty choppy and the paddling was tough. We were paddling slower than we could walk. Between the choppy water and tide, we averaged about 2 miles per hour. It seriously felt like we would never get there…that Sebree was just a mirage. We kept paddling and paddling and paddling – encouraging each other to keep paddling, that each one brought us that much closer to our destination. When we finally reached the island, we pulled into a little private cove on the tip, about 1 mile from our pick up spot. I was sooooooo happy to get out of that blasted kayak and rest and walk and stand and put the paddle down! The sun had come out halfway into our big crossing, so it was nice to dry out and warm up and sit in the sun, surrounding by stunning beauty. We hung out on our private beach and watched the sea and the sky. GGuy fished off of a rocky point on Sebree, and caught a lovely pink salmon that we cooked up for dinner. We hung out on the rocks and ate dinner and just felt really lucky to be there. It was a long, exhausting day, and we crawled into the tent just after 8 p.m. and called it a night!

We woke up about 6 a.m. and loaded up the kayak so we could make our rendezvous with the tour boat. We found the rock cairns past campers had set up on the beach and knew we were in the right spot. Another kayaker pulled in just after us, and we made coffee and swapped trip stories. He’d kayaked all the way from Juneau and been out for 14 days…solo! As we were waiting for the tour boat to pick us up, I spotted a Grizzly bear with my "bear eye" across the small sound, and we watched him for a while through GGuy’s binocs. It was incredible! He would flip giant rocks like they were nothing and then stick his nose in the hole from the rock and suck out the tiny fish that had gotten stuck there with the last tide! It was truly an awesome sight!

I felt a little like wildlife when the tour boat stopped to pick us up…the tourists on the boat was looking at us and taking photos. Pretty funny! The boat took us up the West Arm of Glacier Bay. We went into Tidal Inlet, picked up more campers at the Queen Inlet, then made our way up to Reid Glacier, Lamplugh Glacier and Johns Hopkins Glacier. We saw some pretty incredible calving at Johns Hopkins…huge slabs of ice rumbling like thunder and then sliding to the sea with an incredible roar. Awesome!

As happy as I was to know there was a shower in my very near future, I was also sad that the adventure had come to an end, that it was no longer just GGuy and I in Alaska, that we were giving up the serenity of the wilderness for creature comforts of civilization. Our time out there was intense and wonderful.

I definitely felt the solitude of wilderness. There were many points during the trip when we were the only man-made objects around. It was almost overwhelming how tiny that made me feel. Tiny, insignificant and totally connected – to the otters, to the seals, to the trees, to the bald eagles soaring overhead, to the wilderness. That was an incredible feeling.

If I had to do it all over again, I’d bring larger containers for water. I'd stay longer and make littler jumps between stops so each day wasn’t such a long grind. I’d explore more of the tiny coves that abound in GBNP. I’d also relax a little more about the bears. Be aware, be safe, but be in the moment more. I’d find myself relaxing more as the time spent at each campsite went on, but I definitely worried too much.

I am so glad I went with GGuy. There’s no one I trust more or would have wanted to be there with. As GGuy said: “We are so lucky!”

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Trip Report - Deep Lake Camping

Have you ever driven through Glenwood Canyon, mouth agape, senses awed and wondered what was on top of those cliffs? I got to experience the top firsthand the weekend of June 19-21. If you get off at the Dotsero exit, head north on the Colorado River Road for about two miles, there will be a left turn onto the Coffee Pot Road. The Coffee Pot Road is one of those epic Colorado roads…it is narrow and windy and the landscape falls very steeply off the side of the road. But, the views are stunning, and the landscape once you are on top of the canyon are nearly indescribable. You can see to Aspen to the south and to Vail the west. Once on top, all around are deep canyons, meadows filled with wildflowers, aspen groves that light up in the fall, pine trees, interesting rock formations and more lakes than you would expect in dry Colorado. The Flattops Wilderness begins in this area, so it is the perfect location to really get away from it all.

About 29 miles up the Coffee Pot Road is Deep Lake (about 10,500 feet in elevation),
which has a beautiful campground along the eastern edge. That was Grubby Guy and my destination. We’d heard a snowdrift had made getting to the lake nearly impossible, but that they were plowing it in the morning. So, Friday night, GGuy and I drove most of the way and pulled off Coffee Pot to set up in what had been a hunter’s camp in the fall. (A sign that it was the right spot...a mama elk and her newborn baby were walking up the hill by the campsite right as we pulled off. GGuy was sold!) We had eaten before we got there, so we built a fire and talked and gaped at the absolutely amazing night sky. I swear, we could see the whole Milky Way. I made a wish on a falling star.

We woke to an absolutely beautiful morning – sunny, warm, clear. After a delicious breakfast, we packed up our little camp and drove up the road to Deep Lake. GGuy wanted to fish (and look for Elk – he’s spotted two herds that morning), and I just wanted to sit by a lake

and relax. Perfect solution! When we got there, the spots right next to the lake were taken, so we settled for a spot in the trees with a view of the lake. Our spot had a great place to pitch our tent, a picnic table and a nice fire ring with a grate for cooking. We pitched our tent and set our campsite up, and then GGuy and I headed down to the lake for some fishing. We could see the fish jumping out of the water, and GGuy had a good feeling. The fish, however, decided to be picky. After about 45 minutes and not a nibble, I decided I’d rather get some exercise, and left GGuy to decide which dry fly would work best. Since the area is pretty remote, there wasn’t a lot of traffic, so I walked along a dirt road for a while. It was unlike anything else I’ve seen in Colorado. Once I got on top of Old Ute Trail, there were tons of white and red rock

everywhere, set against the vivid green of the grasses and evergreens – it looked almost like an alien landscape. Stunning. I could have kept walking just to see what was around the next corner, but I’d been walking for more than an hour, and decided to go back to camp. GGuy and I napped for a bit in the sun-warmed tent, then went looking for firewood for our campfire. There was plenty of available fuel, but with all the recent rain, it was more difficult to find dry wood. Once we had enough to last us the night, we came back to camp to hang out. I read and he fished a little more (catching two Brookies). Then, we made a lovely camp dinner, sat around the campfire chatting, watched a beautiful sunset over the lake and called it an early night. A fierce thunderstorm roared through about midnight, and it pretty much rained the rest of the night. When we woke up, nothing was dry, and most of our things had standing puddles on them. With nothing we could do about it, we made the best of it. We marveled at the low-hanging clouds racing up the canyon carved by Deep Creek, made some coffee, cooked a little breakfast and then packed up our soggy belongings and made our way back down the hill. I’d definitely go back. The campground was nice – very scenic, the potties were clean, and there were plenty of dispersed camping options nearby. The sites were just $6 a night. It takes a bit to get there, but was well worth the feeling of being in the middle of the wilderness

and surrounded by the great outdoors.


Gre
at, grubby weekend,

GG

Getting Started - Camping

I heart camping. Behind hiking, it is my very favorite way of getting grubby. I love looking up at the stars and trying to pick out the satellites and waiting for a shooting star. I love getting up in the morning and stretching with trees and wildflowers and amazing views all around. I love that food just tastes better when prepared and eaten outside. I love sitting around the campfire, making S’mores and staring at the flames and talking about everything and nothing. And, since I usually work in a hike, or a bike ride, or some time fishing when I camp, I love that I can experience all that the great outdoors has to offer all at once. And, I love that there is always one moment during every camping trip that you will remember forever.

For the uninitiated, though, camping can be super intimidating. There are some equipment requirements, and I wouldn’t recommend camping solo your first time out. (I tried it once, but after having no one to laugh with around the campfire and having nightmares all night about crazy people coming to my tent to hurt me, I drove back home early the next morning. Perhaps you are braver than I, but I would still recommend camping with someone the first time.) The intimidation factor shouldn’t keep you from trying camping. Once you do it, you’ll realize how easy and rewarding it can be. There are three main types of camping: campground camping, dispersed camping, and backpacking. Backpacking is much more involved than the other two, so I’ll save that for another discussion. For now, I’ll talk about the kind of camping where you load up your car, and head to the hills – car camping. There are literally hundreds of campgrounds in Colorado. This Web site offers a good place to start: http://tinyurl.com/mqyc2r There are also books you can borrow from the library or buy. And, as always, ask around to see where others have camped and what they enjoyed. Prices for camping in a campground range from about $6 a night to about $14 a night, depending on the amenities offered and the location. The pros are that campgrounds are easy, convenient, and there is usually a potty. They generally have picnic tables and fire rings. But, they can be crowded and loud. It never ceases to amaze me all the things people take with them on their “getaways.” Loud generators, radios, satellite television, barking dogs and children running through the campground are all pretty common. If you are more interested in really getting away from it all and are willing to spend some time looking for a good spot, dispersed camping may be for you. On Federal lands – Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and Forest Service – you are allowed to camp almost anywhere (look for posted signs warning you where you cannot camp) as long as you stay far enough away from rivers, streams and lakes. If you take just about any dirt road (and many of them are suitable for a two-wheel drive car), you can generally find a clearing and a fire ring from campers past. Find a clearing that’s to your liking, and you can set up camp there. The pros are that you really get away from everything, it’s usually much quieter and offers a lot more privacy. The cons are that you don’t have a picnic table or a potty (bring a spade with you…you do get a ‘poo with a view’). Either car camping option would be fine for your first time out. And, you might want to try both options to see which one you like best.

As far as equipment goes, since you will drive your car to your camp spot with either dispersed or campground camping, you can pack what you think you’ll need your first time and then decide what you REALLY need after you see what you used and what sat in the car. For sure, you will need a tent (set it up before you go so you know how to do it and aren’t trying to set it up for the first time in the dark or the rain); a sleeping bag and pad (Thermarest makes a variety of good ones); a pillow; a headlamp (to find your way to the tent or the bathroom after the campfire dies down); a camp stove (even if you can have a fire, cooking with a stove is much easier and more convenient, especially in the morning when you may not want to deal with building a fire and all of the campfire smoke); pots and pans for the food you will cook and that work with your stove; a camp chair; utensils, plates, bowls, and cups (I usually bring plastic utensils pilfered from restaurants, and plastic or paper dishes for ease of use); water (bring more than you think you need – you will use this for drinking, brushing your teeth, washing dishes, etc.); food for breakfast, lunch and dinner (don’t forget the chocolate, graham crackers and marshmallows for S’mores!); a cooler for food and drinks; a hat and gloves or mittens; a warm outer layer and long johns; a hat and sunscreen; paper towels, toilet paper, wet naps; first aid kit; and waterproof matches. I’m sure there’s lots of other stuff, but this is a pretty good list to start. If you are wary about making an investment in all of this, you can rent tents, sleeping bags and pads, camp stoves and other equipment from REI or a local sporting goods store. You can also jump in with friends or a group for your first time. That way, whatever you don’t have, you can borrow from someone else. I also highly recommend buying a large storage tub so you can keep all of your equipment together in one place. That way, you are less likely to forget an essential…like toilet paper.

I think that about does it. Do you have any questions before starting out? Let me know!

GG

All the Grubby Details:
How Far - Depends on how far you'd like to go...there a TONS of options within a two-hour drive of Denver.
Time Commitment - Plan on a whole weekend in order to make the drive worthwhile.
Misery Index – Low to Moderate – sometimes, the weather doesn’t cooperate, and sleeping on the ground can be a little rough.
Intimidation Index – Moderate to High – fears include equipment overload, snakes, bears, wild animals, etc. Don’t let any of that stop you. In all my time outside, the many hundreds of miles I’ve hiked and all of the nights spent camping over the years, I’ve seen one bear in Colorado (I guess technically, two, since it was a mama bear and her cub). And, that was near timberline and in the fall when bears are trying to fill up before hibernation. You should be careful, but not obsessed or paranoid.
Dog Friendliness - High - but, make sure your dog is good around people, good in the dark and not totally freaked out by fire. And, decide whether or not you want your dog in the tent or on a comfy cushion outside your tent...and try to remember if your dog barks in the night, it is most likely a deer or a squirrel.
Equipment needed to start – See above.
Equipment to upgrade if you find you like it – A water purifier helps if you don’t want to drag lots of water with you. And, you can buy actual camping utensils and plates, etc. if you’d like. Otherwise, the equipment you start with should last you for years and years and years.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Trip Report - Rifle Arch Hike





Just north of the town of Rifle is little pull-off parking lot. It is literally just off the highway. It is not well marked...it just has a small brown sign with an arrow on it to mark the start of the trail. But, if you park there and go through a little cattle gate, you will find yourself in the middle of a sagebrush flat and on your way to one of the coolest things in Colorado - the Rifle Arch. This natural arch is pretty well camouflaged against the sandstone cliffs around it, so if you are blasting by in a car, you'd likely miss it. You shouldn't. It is well worth stopping! The trail is fairly flat - just a slow, steady climb to the base of the arch through sagebrush and pinon trees. (If you go, go in spring, fall or a cool-ish summer day. There isn't a lot of shade, and it can get scorching!) It has been a super wet spring, so when we went the second week of June, the many cacti had all bloomed bright yellow and orange. Once you get to the base of the arch, you can stop and rest at the bench and take photos from there, or you can scramble up the rocks to get right up under the arch. Grubby Guy and I decided to scramble up to the arch. The views were spectacular! I got a little panicked by the height and had to gingerly make my way back down pretty quickly, but I was glad I chose to go up to the arch. The whole hike took about an hour and a half, including posing for photos and my brief panic attack. A fabulous, moderate afternoon hike.

Go play!
GG

Trip Report - Shed Hunting






The spring wasn't that great for shed hunting with my man, Grubby Guy. I was training for a half-marathon, so spent most of my spring running. GGuy got out hunting a few times without me, but just once with me. We went in late May to a spot GGuy had been wanting to check out (he's sworn me to secrecy). We wanted to get up on top of a mesa, so took the ATV as far as we could before walking into the woods. We missed the game trail going out, so forged our own path. Once on top of the mesa, we spread out...I quickly found one deer horn, and was totally thrilled! Grubby Girl: 1; Grubby Guy: 0! GGuy went to scan the area on a hill while I stayed in the sagebrush flats and started walking back and forth, doing my best to set up an effective screen. I mostly looked at the amazing wildflowers, and meandered to places I thought the elk would like to hang out. It must've worked because I found two more elk horns and a deer horn. GGirl: 3; GGuy: 1 (tiny one at that). I was doing great, just really enjoying being outside and smelling the sage, and then I found the elk head high in a tree...I figured that anything that could drag an elk up a tree was not something I wanted to tangle with, so I high-tailed it out of there...Called GGuy on the walkie talkie to tell him I was going back, found the game trail I missed on my way up, and scurried back to the ATV to wait for GGuy and eat my sandwich. All in all, pretty successful hunt. With the right mindset, it really is like a treasure hunt.

Grubby and glad to be home,
GG